the name Thomas Keller is mentioned, the first things that come to mind are often his legendary restaurants like The French Laundry, Bouchon Bistro, and Per Se. These establishments have set the gold standard for fine dining, earning Keller a place among the most revered chefs in the world. However, in 2019, Keller surprised the culinary world by venturing into a new territory: La Calenda, a casual Mexican restaurant located in the heart of Yountville, California. This bold move not only showcased Keller’s versatility but also sparked conversations about cultural authenticity, culinary innovation, and the evolving landscape of American dining.
La Calenda is more than just a restaurant; it’s a celebration of Oaxacan culture, a tribute to the vibrant traditions of Mexico, and a testament to Keller’s commitment to excellence—no matter the cuisine. At the helm of La Calenda is Kaelin Ulrich Trilling, a native of Oaxaca, whose deep-rooted connection to Mexican culinary traditions brings an unparalleled authenticity to the menu. Together, Keller and Trilling have created a space where the flavors of Oaxaca meet the precision and passion of Keller’s renowned kitchen, resulting in a dining experience that is both familiar and extraordinary.
In this post, we’ll explore the story behind La Calenda, its significance in the culinary world, the unique dishes that define its menu, and why it has become a must-visit destination for food lovers. Whether you’re a fan of Thomas Keller, a lover of Mexican cuisine, or simply someone who appreciates a well-crafted meal, La Calenda offers something truly special.
The Story Behind La Calenda
La Calenda’s name is inspired by the traditional Mexican parade, or calenda, which is a festive procession often held before weddings, graduations, and other significant celebrations. This choice of name reflects the restaurant’s mission: to bring the joy, color, and spirit of Oaxacan culture to Yountville. The restaurant is situated at 6518 Washington Street, just a stone’s throw from The French Laundry, making it a unique addition to Keller’s culinary empire.
Keller’s decision to open a Mexican restaurant was met with both excitement and skepticism. Some questioned whether a chef known for French cuisine could authentically represent the flavors of Oaxaca. However, Keller’s approach was thoughtful and respectful. He recognized the importance of cultural authenticity and sought out Kaelin Ulrich Trilling, a talented chef with deep roots in Oaxaca, to lead the kitchen. Trilling’s expertise and passion for his heritage have been instrumental in shaping La Calenda’s identity, ensuring that the restaurant stays true to its Oaxacan roots while benefiting from Keller’s culinary precision.
The menu at La Calenda is a reflection of this collaboration. It features a mix of traditional Oaxacan dishes and modern interpretations, all made with the highest quality ingredients. From hand-pressed tortillas to slow-cooked meats and vibrant salsas, every dish tells a story of tradition, innovation, and respect for Mexican culinary heritage.
The Significance of La Calenda in the Culinary World
La Calenda’s opening marked a significant moment in the culinary world. It was one of the first times a chef of Keller’s stature had ventured into Mexican cuisine, a cuisine that, despite its global popularity, is often overlooked in fine dining circles. By doing so, Keller not only expanded his own culinary repertoire but also brought much-needed attention to the richness and complexity of Oaxacan food.
The restaurant’s focus on Oaxacan cuisine is particularly noteworthy. Oaxaca is known as the culinary heart of Mexico, renowned for its diverse ingredients, bold flavors, and deep cultural traditions. Dishes like mole, tlayudas, and memelas are staples of Oaxacan cuisine, and La Calenda has embraced these traditions wholeheartedly. The restaurant’s commitment to authenticity is evident in its sourcing practices, with many ingredients imported directly from Oaxaca, including dried chiles, corn, and other foundational elements of Mexican cooking.
La Calenda also stands out for its approach to cultural appropriation. In an era where the culinary world is increasingly conscious of issues related to cultural sensitivity, La Calenda has set an example of how to celebrate and honor a culture’s cuisine respectfully. The restaurant’s website and marketing materials prominently feature the artisans and producers from Oaxaca who contribute to its success, ensuring that the spotlight is shared with those who have preserved these culinary traditions for generations.
The Menu: A Celebration of Oaxacan Flavors
The menu at La Calenda is a vibrant tapestry of Oaxacan flavors, offering everything from street food classics to more elaborate dishes. Here’s a closer look at some of the standout items:
- Tacos: La Calenda’s tacos are a must-try, with options like al pastor, carnitas, and barbacoa. Each taco is served on hand-pressed tortillas, made fresh daily using corn imported from Oaxaca. The al pastor, in particular, is a standout, featuring marinated pork cooked on a vertical spit and served with pineapple and onions.
- Mole: Mole is a cornerstone of Oaxacan cuisine, and La Calenda offers several varieties, including mole negro and mole verde. These complex sauces are made using traditional recipes and served with tender meats like chicken or pork.
- Tamales: The tamales at La Calenda are another highlight, with fillings like chicken in mole negro or cheese and chile. Each tamale is wrapped in banana leaves and steamed to perfection, resulting in a dish that is both comforting and flavorful.
- Salsas: No Mexican meal is complete without salsa, and La Calenda offers six different varieties, ranging from mild to fiery. The habanero salsa is a favorite among diners, offering a perfect balance of heat and flavor.
- Desserts: For those with a sweet tooth, La Calenda’s desserts are not to be missed. The rice pudding and churros are particularly popular, offering a delightful end to the meal.
💡 Note: The menu at La Calenda is designed to be shared, making it a great spot for groups or those looking to sample a variety of dishes.
| Dish | Description | Price Range |
|---|---|---|
| Al Pastor Tacos | Marinated pork cooked on a vertical spit, served with pineapple and onions on hand-pressed tortillas. | $11-$13 for two |
| Pollo en Mole Negro | Chicken simmered in Oaxacan black mole, served with rice and beans. | $22 |
| Tamales | Steamed tamales wrapped in banana leaves, with fillings like chicken in mole negro or cheese and chile. | $6-$7 |
| Churros | Crispy churros served with chocolate or cajeta dipping sauce. | $8 |
The Beverage Program: A Toast to Tradition
No meal at La Calenda is complete without exploring its ambitious beverage program. The restaurant offers a full-service bar specializing in tequilas and mezcals, as well as a selection of local wines and beers. The mezcal program is particularly impressive, featuring a variety of artisanal mezcals sourced from small producers in Oaxaca. The classic margarita is given a unique twist with the addition of pineapple agave syrup, while the Avión de Papel cocktail combines añejo tequila, Amaro Nonino, and Aperol for a complex and refreshing drink.
The beverage program at La Calenda is designed to complement the food, with each drink carefully crafted to enhance the flavors of the dishes. Whether you’re sipping on a smoky mezcal or enjoying a crisp local beer, the drinks at La Calenda are as thoughtfully prepared as the food.
The Atmosphere: A Lively and Welcoming Space
La Calenda’s atmosphere is as vibrant as its menu. The restaurant’s design draws inspiration from Oaxacan culture, with colorful tiles, warm lighting, and rustic wooden furniture creating a welcoming and lively space. The open kitchen allows diners to watch as the culinary team hand-presses tortillas and slices al pastor from the spinning rotisserie, adding to the restaurant’s energetic ambiance.
The service at La Calenda is another highlight. The staff is knowledgeable, friendly, and passionate about the food and drinks they serve. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a regular, you’ll feel right at home at La Calenda.
Why La Calenda Matters
La Calenda is more than just a restaurant; it’s a celebration of culture, tradition, and innovation. By bringing Oaxacan cuisine to Yountville, Thomas Keller and Kaelin Ulrich Trilling have created a space where diners can experience the richness of Mexican food in a setting that is both authentic and approachable. The restaurant’s success is a testament to the power of collaboration, respect, and a shared love of good food.
La Calenda also serves as a reminder of the importance of cultural exchange in the culinary world. In an era where food is increasingly globalized, restaurants like La Calenda show how different cultures can come together to create something truly special. By honoring the traditions of Oaxaca while embracing the creativity and precision of Keller’s kitchen, La Calenda has set a new standard for what it means to celebrate and share a culture’s cuisine.
💡 Note: La Calenda is open Tuesday through Saturday from 5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m., making it a great spot for dinner and late-night dining.
As the culinary world continues to evolve, restaurants like La Calenda remind us of the power of food to bring people together. Thomas Keller’s foray into Oaxacan cuisine is not just a testament to his versatility as a chef but also a celebration of the rich traditions and flavors that define Mexican food. Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or simply someone who loves a good meal, La Calenda offers an experience that is as memorable as it is delicious. So, the next time you find yourself in Yountville, be sure to stop by La Calenda and experience the magic of Oaxaca for yourself.
